early planning

Although it’s still February, there are some slight indications that spring is on its way. So, I’m beginning to think about my plans for cycle tours for this summer. There are a couple of routes I had considered last year, like the Scottish coast to coast or completing the Caledonian Way from Oban to Inverness. I’d also like to continue with the islands theme. When I cycled round Arran I had thought about continuing on to Kintyre and from there to Islay and Jura. As these are islands I’ve never visited I think I’ll work out a circular route to also include Colonsay, from where I can take a ferry to Oban then the train home.

Looking forward to it already.

bike building

After I published my previous post this morning, I realised that a lot of the commentary on my bike building efforts has been about re-doing or replacing components. Some of these have been down to me wanting to upgrade some parts but others have been just a case of not researching enough to learn which bits I needed before I went out and bought them.

So if I ever build another bike from scratch (there’s a good chance I will want to as it’s something I really enjoy doing), I will spend more time researching just how I want the bike to turn out before I go buying parts.

forks

When I built my MTB I tried to buy used components to save a bit of money. At the time I couldn’t find forks which were pre-owned at a price I liked, so settled for a set from e-bay which were “new other” but came at a reduced and very affordable price. I’ve been using them for a while now but have looked into the recommended fork for the frame I have. As it turns, out On-one supply their scandal bikes with a 130mm travel fork whereas the ones I bought have a travel of 160mm. I’m not sure if the 30mm difference makes the ride better or worse but I’ve decided to do a bit of researching. With the conversion to a mullet I’m also trying to find out if an even shorter travel would suit better and am considering going to 120mm. Looking at the axle to crown measurements of each fork, it would seem that the lower travel also means a shorter fork which would probably sort out the strange geometry the mullet brings. This would also be different if I upgraded to a Rockshox Revelation fork which is more expensive an upgrade but offers better construction. There’s that and the question of offset. Most reviews I’ve read claim that there’s no noticeable difference between 42mm and 51mm so I guess it’s just a case of going for whatever is available.

I have seen a couple of sets of Rockshox on e-bay, one of which is identical to the ones I have fitted but in the shorter travel. The other is the higher spec Revelation so I just need to decide what I am willing to spend. As I’m otherwise very happy with the Rockshox, I’m going to stick with the brand. If I can get them for the starting bidding price, I can try out both sets of forks, keep the one which suits best and sell the others without losing any money. May as well get this done while the winter weather is still restricting my riding.

UPDATE: I have decided if I’m making the effort to change the forks I may as well go with the upgrade and have ordered the Revelation forks. Apart from having a higher spec they are also new and I can then cut the stem to suit the new geometry of the bike.

locks

Over the past few years I’ve tried out several different styles of lock for my bikes. I don’t often leave my bike unattended for long periods so what I’m looking for in a lock is something which will deter opportunist thieves and is quick and easy to use. This means a few things. It needs to be able to be fitted somewhere on my bike which is convenient to attach and remove. If I’m parking my bike, to say go into a shop, I need to be able to remove the lock, fasten it round an anchor and then do the reverse a few minutes later when I’m ready to go on my way.

I’ve tried out a few different styles of lock. One which I thought would be a more secure option was the Abus Granit folding lock. I found an offer which included two lock carriers which meant I could transfer the lock between bikes. Although it was heavy, being fitted to the bike frame meant this was not too much of a negative and the extra security it offered made up for that. What I didn’t like was the difficulty I encountered when I needed to lock the bike up for a short period. If I wanted to anchor the bike to a fixed object it needed to be something quite particular. Cycle racks were ideal but not always available. The bars of the lock were not flexible enough to allow me to fix them in awkward positions. This lock would be ideal if I was maybe locking up my bike at a workplace for the day but for casual, short-term use it was just too much effort and the temptation was not to bother which negated the point of having a lock in the first place. I needed something which would be easy to apply and reattach to the bike when I was on my way again.

For this I have found that the best solution is a cable lock. For a while I used a 160cm long one which I bought in Halfords when I was out and had realised I had forgotton the Abus lock I usually used. This met most of my needs and I used it for a while. The length was a bit of a pain though. It needed to be uncoiled each time I used it and although it could stretch to using anchors which were bigger, it was often looped round the frame a few additional times just to try to avoid having too much cable accessible to be cut. each time I used it I would get annoyed by the process I needed to go through. An item I found on e-bay one day, offered a solution to this frustration. I bought a 60cm cable lock. This is still long enough to secure my bike in most situations. It is also a larger diameter cable so will be stronger and rolls up to be the same size therefore attaches to the frame in the same position as the longer cable.

All the locks I have bought have had keys. I have considered switching to combination locks to avoid the possibility of losing a key but as this is something I have never done (fingers crossed I haven’t cursed myself) I just haven’t ever bought one. I’m not sure which locking method is more secure but maybe should research it and consider combination locks as an alternative. Cable locks sometimes come with a mounting bracket to attach them to the bike frame but I have only used one of these once. I found that it was OK for a while but the clip to fasten the lock to the mount gave out after a time and I have never bothered with one since. I tend to fasten the lock with velcro straps which also give me the option of mounting the lock in different positions. I have also considered using a wearable lock to avoid the problem of finding a suitable place to mount the lock on the bike. I tried fastening the chain lock round my waist a couple of times but this was so uncomfortable I gave up on that idea. Maybe one which is specifically designed to be worn would be better but I doubt it would be worth the effort of experimentation.

The Abus chain lock I have, which is also 60cm long, is more secure but is not so convenient to store on the bike as it does not coil as easily and takes up more space. I have found a place on the rear rack to store it and so I tend to use this when I am touring. If I need to leave the bike, say in a station, I can either fasten it around the rear wheel and the frame which will stop anyone wheeling the bike away or it can be chained to a post if necessary.

There are probably other security solutions which I will try out when I come across them. The cost of losing a bike is definately worth spending money on security measures so I will keep on looking and experimenting. It may be a combination of different locks will provide the best solution. I’ll see.

mullet?

When I built my current bikes I decided to go with 29″ wheels on both of them. This has been a welcome upgrade from the 26″ wheels I was using on my previous mountain bike. Especially on the touring bike, the larger diameter wheels makes cycling distances much less effort and I am happy with the set-up. The only twinge of doubt was that it sometimes felt as though, when out on the mountain bike especially, I was perched on top of the bike. I don’t often go off-road but on the occasions I do go on rougher trails it can feel as if I’m riding “tall”.

So, I started looking into changing my rear wheel for a smaller one. I saw a sale on Hope wheels and decided to buy a 27.5″ which I could swap over. The current disc and cassette will both swap directly and although there is a bit of expense to buy new tyre and inner tubes, if the mullet set-up works I should be able to off-set some of the cost by selling on the 29″ wheel which is in excellent condition.

I’ll try it out for a few months and see which wheel set I prefer and get back with a comparison.

UPDATE: While in the process of ordering the 27.5″ wheel I considered getting one with a 12 speed micro-spline free-hub. I have previously thought about changing from a 10 speed to 12 speed drivetrain but at the time didn’t think it worth the effort. As I’m upgrading the wheel, I’ve decided that I may as well revive my old plan so I’ve also ordered a 12 speed derailleur, shifter and cassette, (all pre-used to keep the cost down!). I also looked at buying a TRP derailleur but the , frankly huge, additional cost has put me off for now. Maybe something for the future.

chain:- wax on, wax off?

As my poor health is still keeping me off the bike I thought I would spend some time looking at different methods of maintaining my bikes, including lubricating the chains. I usually use a good chain oil. cleaning the chain between lubes and this has always done me well. I did notice an article about immersive waxing and thought I’d give some thought to it. The process of waxing seems to protect the chain better and for longer as it leaves a hard coating on the chain, keeping dirt off.

It was then I noticed that the process should be carried out every 3-400 kms. No problem, I thought but it went on to say that it would need to be done after a wet ride. The old wax will need to be completely stripped off and the new coating applied using a process involving heat. This will entail the chain being removed each time. Oiling my chain is done by wiping it clean, maybe using a de-greaser and re-applying more oil. Living in Scotland, where the weather is wet most days, using a process which takes so much longer would seem to be a complete no-no! Does anyone in this country ever consider using wax?

I think I’ll be sticking to using oil although I have seen a product from AbsoluteBlack which is a wax based oil and after initial treatment is applied like any oil. That maybe warrants further investigation.

happy new year

It’s 2025 and I don’t normally make resolutions as a rule but this year I really need to get out more on my bike. I’ve done all the upgrades I want so there’s no further tinkering to be done. Just riding!

So although I have been experiencing some on-going health problems I’m hoping these won’t stop me getting miles done in ’25. I may even get a couple of camping trips organised.

axle

While I’m getting things done (and spending money), I’ve ordered another thru axle for my touring bike’s front wheel. The one that came with the forks is a quick release whilst the rear was a hex socket. There’s really no difference in the efficiency which they hold the wheels in place and the QR lever does away with the necessity to carry the correct hex key size. But, when I’ve got the loaded front panniers on. the position of the QR lever can get in the way of mounting the panniers. The best position for tightening the wheel is not the same as for the mounting of the bag. I found a few times on my last tour that the bag would snag on the lever and one time it even loosened it. So I’ll fit the hex one and see what difference it makes.

confusion reigns

In a previous post I said that I was going to replace the crank-set on my MTB. While I was doing that and for no other reason than looks, I also wanted to swap the black end caps with red ones. I got the non-drive side one removed and the new one fitted with no problem. The drive-side was not so straightforward. I downloaded the instructions, read them carefully and went to remove the original cap. The instructions are to loosen the cap in a clockwise direction but as you can see from the picture below, the cap seems to indicate otherwise.

I finally worked out that the directional arrows on the cap are not for the cap itself but for the hex bolt which it covers and tightens up the crank on to the axle!

while I’m at it

As I’m in the mood for doing a bit of re-modelling and up-grading I’ve decided to address an issue with the wheels on my ALICE. When I was building the bike I messed up when ordering the wheel-set. I ordered wheels before the frame arrived and bought a set of Hope 35W fortus wheels. These were used, although they were in perfect condition, so were non-returnable. When I tried fitting them to the frame, it turned out that the ideal tyre size for the rims was too wide to fit the frame. I had, at the same time ordered new Hope wheels for my MTB so did a quick about turn and changed that order to sizes that would fit the ALICE.

When both sets of wheels arrived and I tried fitting them it turned out that although the ALICE forks took non-boost wheels, the rear wheel should be boost. I managed to fit them using spacers on the hub but these are really difficult to hold in place while fitting the axle. A task which really needs three hands to complete as the spacers have to be held in place while the wheel is held in position and the axle fed through. It’s one thing doing this when the bike is up on a stand but I dread ever having to do it while I’m away touring and need to repair a puncture.

So I’ve decided to change the rear wheel to a boost axle one. This will make removing and fitting it a lot easier. I’ve never had a puncture yet since fitting the Schwalbe tyres but I really don’t want to chance it while touring. It’s extra expenditure but I should be able to sell the one I’m taking off as it’s still in very good condition and this will off-set the price. The two wheel hubs wont be the same colour as the rear I’ve ordered is in black but I’ll also keep an eye out for a matching front wheel at an affordable price.

UPDATE: I found a front wheel on e-bay. It’s ex shop-display so was going for almost half the price of a new one. It’s a PRO 4 rather than the PRO 5 that I bought for the rear wheel but as the main difference in the two is the ratchet for the rear one so this will suit my needs perfectly. It just meant that I bought it and a second black rotor sooner than I had expected to. It is Xmas after all so that’s my excuse!

FURTHER UPDATE: Parcelforce seem to have lost/stolen my wheel so it looks like it’s going to be a protracted fight trying to sort this out never mind getting any recompense. I may just have to go with buying a new PRO 5.

FINAL UPDATE: The parcel has finally been traced to a different building. So I can now fit the PRO 4 wheel along with the matching disc and so that will be me for now!